If your dog is filthy, he’ll have to be bathed. If he’s a light colored or white dog, or one with a predilection toward dirty pools or other dirty things, he’ll have to see the interior of the tub or kitchen sink regularly. During flea and tick season, he may also want regular insecticidal tubs. Longhaired dogs generally need routine bathtubs to dispose of “doggy” smell. Many Terriers and shorthaired dogs just have to be bathed a couple times annually.
Great quality commercially available dog shampoos don’t strip the oils in the jacket. Where you bathe your dog is determined by his size. Big dogs should be bathed in a tub.
Sprayer hose (optional, but quite useful)
Little pail (big dogs)
Old clothing or bathing suit
Broad toothed plastic brush or comb (for heavy coated dogs)
Large dog towels or dog towel tote
Individuals hair dryer or canine drier (free standing favored)
Before starting, consistently brush and comb your dog completely to remove dead hair, knots and mats. Have all the essential products and towels prepared before you place your dog in the bathtub. Wear “dog tub-proof” clothes that will not endure if it gets soaked.
Put a rubber mat or towel on the underparts of the the sink or tub. A handheld rubber aerosol attached to your own faucet is beneficial for steering the water.
Dogs with thick coat should be totally wet to your skin before applying shampoo. Some dogs have an oily coating on their fur which makes it watertight. A high quality dish detergent will remove this greasy coating and allow shampoo (and conditioner, if used) permeate.
Big dogs with thick double coats can readily take an hour or so to bathe. A raised bathtub makes this process simpler. Although it’s particularly significant with big dogs, all dogs should learn to allow bathing as pups. They have to get used to having hands throughout their bodies and to stay voluntarily in the bath until the final rinse is complete.
Express the anal glands before starting to bathe. Pay particular focus on the anal region. Make sure he’s fully soaked before proceeding.
If you’re bathing a big dog, have prepared the needed amount of shampoo in a little pail, diluted with warm water. Work up an excellent lather down to your skin, carrying on from back to front. Take particular attention to clean the anal region and paw pads.
Rinse the jacket completely and shampoo again. Rinse again. Bathe your dog’s face with a washcloth and infant “tearless” shampoo, taking great care in order to avoid the eyes. This measure is quite significant because any remaining rest will irritate your dog’s skin and make the jacket dull.
Now, you may add a conditioner. A smattering is adequate for a Golden Retriever sized dog. At the moment, any minor knots can be relaxed with a tiny bit of extra conditioner.
Using your hands, squeeze the excess water in the dog, paying special focus on ears, tail and legs. Run your hands down your dog’s body to “squeegee” water in the remaining jacket.
If your dog is short coated, it is possible to rub the coat to absorb extra moisture. Nevertheless, longhaired dogs should have their jackets squeezed, not rubbed, to prevent tangles. Use as numerous towels as are needed to get your dog to the “damp dry” period.
Smooth-coated dogs and dogs with corded coats should be towel-dry and then air dried. Whatever the jacket, be sure your dog will not get cooled and is totally dry before you let him outside in cool or cold weather.
When the dog is towel dried, moist dry, you may start. If using a human drier, make sure that the heat is set on low and constantly assess the dog’s skin. Better still, use a freestanding canine drier that leaves your hands free. Make sure that the dryer just isn’t overly close for your dog and the dryer temperature just isn’t overly hot.
Using a slicker brush, brush the jacket carefully against the grain while blowing so that you can straighten curls and reach all layers of the pelt. The thing will be to have the coat stand far from the body. Continue brushing and blow drying the complete body, taking particular care to fully dry ears, feathering and feet.
Unless your dog is pulling his back end on the earth or carpet — a sign the anal glands may be affected (your veterinarian or groomer can demonstrate the best way to express under standard states) — the regular anal glands of dogs should be expressed about every eight weeks. An ideal time to do this really is in the bathtub, right before a bathroom.
Both anal gland sacs lie just below the anus on both sides. Unless expressed of the yellowish brown, foul smelling fluid, they are able to become painfully affected.
The collected fluid should squirt out.